Cairns

We visited Cairns five years ago to discover the Great Barrier Reef – an absolute MUST if you’re only in Australia for a short time. We sailed with Passions of Paradise, so we spent a fantastic day out on the catamaran net and diving amongst the vibrant fish and valuable coral. This time, our trip was focused on the tropical sights surrounding Cairns, like the Kuranda State Forest. With this mission in mind, we booked the Kuranda vintage train that winds its way through the verdant hills ahead of time on Get Your Guide. The morning after we landed, we were picked up with a shuttle at our hotel and dropped off directly at the train station to meet some friends from Germany. The train is pristine: wooden carriages, old-timey bench seating, and crown moldings in the ceiling. After a short wait, we left the station and began our climb into the Barron Gorge. On the route, we had stunning views of Cairns, the hills, and the famous Barron Falls. Around halfway through we even had a chance to get out of the train for the most pristine views of the falls and a little photo op moment. Once in Kuranda, we had a wander of all the lunch spots. They’re mostly pastry shops or cafes that serve fried foods, but there are some solid options, including a Portuguese restaurant called Maria Gourmet. After our meal and wandering of the town, it was time to head to the Skyrail gondola. Their gondolas are spacious and even come in a glass-floor version, so you can watch the rainforest beneath your feet. While this is a great feature, the simple gondolas are great on their own, as they graze the treetops and come close enough to the canopy to get a good chance at spotting the odd tree kangaroo or possum. The views were just magical, especially the cerulean Ulysses butterflies that travel above the tree line in search of Euodia tree flowers. If you simply stay in the gondola and swap to the next one at the two stops along the way, the journey takes about half an hour. While you can choose to keep the trip short, we’d recommend making the most of each stop. At the first stop, Barron Gorge, you can weave your way through the boardwalks in the rainforest until you reach another great view point of the falls. At the second stop, you can catch a quick walk with one of the rangers to learn more about the flora and fauna in the area. We learned about strangling creeper vines, tree kangaroos, and that the Wet Tropics of Queensland rainforest is the oldest rainforest continuously surviving rainforest in the world. Once back in town, we were kindly picked up by the same shuttle driver and dropped off at our hotel. With plenty of time left in the day, we decided to freshen up and hit the Timezone arcade. It was so fun to feel like a kid, shooting hoops, playing air hockey, and winning prizes! To round off our busy day, we went to Howlin’ Jays for a tasty burger, fries, and some cocktails.

We didn’t plan on spending much time in Cairns, so we only had one full day left to explore the town. Based on a recommendation from a friend, we went to Bury Me Standing Bagels to have homemade bagels with tasty vegan spreads with lots of pickles! We spent some time at the hotel to work on some admin tasks while the rain came pouring down in the afternoon. For hours, the rain came in waves, each time in a torrential downpour. In one of the breaks, we ran across the street to Goose Specialty Coffee to have a bit of a snack and fuel up on coffee. Continuing our quiet day, we only briefly wandered around town while skiers were clear before the rain came thundering down again and we scampered back to the relative safety of our motel room. For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to pasta at Pist4cchi. From our table outside, we watched the Cairns night come to life, stag do’s hitting one too many bars, people wandering in for their dinner reservations, and others coming back from their late-night swim in the Cairns Lagoon.

K’gari

The next morning we woke up before dawn to catch the plane down to Brisbane and pick up our rental car. We knew we would need to pick up supplies like water and cooking fuel before heading to K’gari (Fraser Island), given its raw and remote location. As such, our first stop was in Yandina, where we stumbled upon Gun Cotton Coffee Roasters, a busy and energetic cafe that serves massive brunch portions and buckets of coffee. A much needed spot after the early wake-up! We picked up our supplies and groceries in Gympie before driving up to the ferry stop. The ferry stop isn’t so much of a stop, just more of a “somewhere along this beach a ferry will probably be landing but we won’t tell you exactly when or where”. The little boat - with room for just six cars - simply plopped its ramp onto the sand and invited us onboard. The ride took just a few minutes and suddenly we were on K’gari, a rugged island rich in natural wonders.

Initially, we drove on the rough 4WD road until we reached the ‘highway’, a surreal expanse of flat, reflective sand. Immediately, we met our first dingo, guiding us onto the island. We knew that the tides would dictate our exploration, setting the hours of the day when it would be safe to travel. So, we only drove a short while before turning off into the Govi campsite. We parked amongst the trees and upon leaving the car, were ambushed by March Flies, which are massive bugs that tend to nip when they land on your skin. While they’re not dangerous, they definitely aren’t pleasant to be around, so make sure to use some Bushman Repellent to keep them at bay. That night, we cooked a simple pot noodle meal and attempted to get some shut-eye in the car.

After a rough night of sleep, we woke up to the sound of the waves, only now they were ages away, swept away with low tide. This day would be our biggest day of driving, as we wanted to see the furthest reachable point of the island with our car before high tide. We drove into Eurong in search of some breakfast and were surprised to find a fully functional town with paved roads, hotels, a bakery, and a general store beyond the dingo gate. There, we had coffee and a pastry amongst a crowd of curious curlews. Eli Creek was our next destination, so we continued up the beach until we spotted a number of cars parked on the sand. There, we waded in the thigh-high, crystal clear water, watching shimmering fish dart amongst our legs. We thought the creek might be deep enough to swim in, but as it was not we opted to have a sit in the deeper parts instead. We didn’t want to purchase any blow-up rings to float down the creek, but it's definitely something to consider if you plan on spending a couple of hours there! After a refreshing dip at Eli Creek, we drove just a short distance to our next stop – the one I was most excited to see: the S.S. Maheno. The huge shipwreck was initially from New Zealand and served in World War I but when it was purchased for scrap by a company in Japan it ran aground while being transported in 1935. The ship detached from the lead ship in a storm and beached on K’gari marooning a crew of eight. After a few days, the crew was picked up and the ship was left behind and has been a permanent piece on the island ever since. While the ship is rather rusty now and has sunk into the sand over the years, its shape remains distinctive and surprisingly, you can still see the wooden floorboards on the deck. Amongst the wreckage, you can spot Man O’War jellyfish on the sand, their blue and noodly tentacles seemingly non-threatening in their punity. The S.S. Maheno is also a very cool spot to watch a small tour plane from Air Fraser Island take off over the wreck. From here, we drove up to Orchard at the top of the island, winding our way around rocks on the ‘highway’ and clambering up duney hills until we reached the secluded restaurant behind more dingo fences. As the sun began to drop in the sky, we chose a camping spot at Waddy Point. When we had a little wander on the beach, we encountered a few shy dingos before they disappeared in the mangroves. Just around the corner from the entrance to the campsite is the Waddy Point Sand Dune. It has grown so high that the signs on top of it are slowly disappearing in the sand. From the top of the dune, you can see the far end of K’gari, where the tracks get more difficult to navigate, especially as you drive around to the west side of the island. We made risotto in the back of the car and settled in for the night as the dingos roamed in the dark.

We woke up to the sunrise and drove back up to Orchard for a cuppa with a view of the ocean. Knowing the tide would be changing in a few hours, we drove a ways to Champagne Pools. When we arrived, we found that the tide was still very high, consuming the pools in harsh waves. The wind was also very strong, wisping up the sand underwater and bringing the water closer to the shore than expected. We waited for a while, but found that the temperamental winds were keeping the pools covered in the ocean and making it unsafe to go for a swim. With that, we also considered that stingers may have found their way into the pools and decided to make a move towards Lake Allom instead. We nearly missed the way inland, but spotted the turn of just in time. The drive up to the lake was beautiful – the track was thick with sand, the light gently filtered in through the trees, and we could spot the Knifeblade Sandblow sprawling beyond the road. Eventually, the tan tones of the sand turned into a thick, leafy rainforest. Suddenly, we could hear a roar of bird chirps and feel the humidity of the forest on our skin. Finally, we arrived at Lake Allom, a murky lake tucked in the trees. We walked the track to the water and immediately spotted dozens of little turtles at the foot of the wooden stairs. We sat for a while, watching the little guys swim about. We turned around, peeking under the stairs, and discovered a monitor lizard crunching through the leaves just past us! We headed back to the main ‘highway’ and went back to the S.S. Maheno for another look in the rain. We also just had to take another dip in Eli Creek before heading back to the bottom of the island. This time, a dingo was peeking through the trees and curiously watched us from the edge of the creek. While he kept his distance, don’t be fooled: dingos can swim! That night, we set up camp with a view of the beach at Govi. Despite some rain showers, the night sky cleared and opened up to an incredible view of the stars.

The next morning, we packed up and caught the barge just as the tide began to consume the beach. Don’t get me wrong, we absolutely loved our time on K’gari and were stunned by the island’s raw beauty, but it was so incredible to have a full breakfast that morning! Plus, we ended up at Little Parliament where the corn fritters and brekkie sando are a dream! Not only was breakfast a hit, but the first shower after the island gave us new life, like being reborn!

Things to keep in mind for a trip to K’gari:

Bring enough water (at least 20 liters). There are places to fill up, but drinking water is not available in all parts of the island and you may get stuck when the tide comes in. It’s best to have something extra just in case!
Bring cooking supplies, as there are only a few two spots on the island where you can grab a bite to eat.
Plan on tent camping or sleeping in your vehicle, unless you are staying at the resort. Consider staying in camping areas behind a dingo fence, especially if you are traveling with young children.
Ensure you have a vehicle with 4WD and know that such off-road vehicles cannot be rented from typical rental companies, as you can incur heavy fines for driving on remote islands like K’gari. Instead, opt for an official off-road rental company or join a tag-along tour.
Be aware of the tides! It is best to travel in the 3 hours before and after low tide to avoid getting stuck in the sand.
Stay dingo safe by checking for animals when you leave your vehicle. Make sure to carry a dingo stick & remain calm and maintain eye-contact with any approaching animals, do not run, and travel in groups.

Noosa Heads

Contrasting our nature-focused days on K’gari, our next stop was a surf-town and luxury beach destination: Noosa. As we drove in, we watched the homes disappear behind private fences or perfectly pruned bushes, especially as we neared Noosa Heads. We only stayed for two nights, but we could have set up shop for a month or longer! The polished main street is lined with every Aussie boutique you can dream up and delicious restaurants at every price point. Beyond all this lies the pristine beach that attracts surfers from around the country and becomes a glossy expanse at low tide. Just dreamy!

When we arrived, we dropped our bags at the Seahaven Resort, a modern spot directly on the Noosa Heads Main Beach with access to two different pools and cozy rooms. We wandered the shops for a while, where I tried on fancy dresses for fun. In the afternoon sun, we watched the surfers catch the last waves of the day and other beach go-ers. It felt like we could really enjoy the slow Aussie life for a moment. Craving something simple but tasty, we walked to Flo’s Crêperie, which turned out to be a fairly long walk, especially with my then-still fickle knee. The walk took us steeply uphill and down again into the side of Noosa heads that lies closer to Sunshine Beach. Here the vibe is more chill, less ostentatious. Flo’s was one of my favorite places on our Australian leg of the trip by far, probably because they loaded my crêpe with Raclette cheese, grilled onions, and potatoes and transported me right back to Switzerland. We were still on a bit of a treat-our-selves trip after dinner, so we fancied ourselves a nice scoop of Ben & Jerry’s for dessert as we strolled back to the hotel.

The next morning, we had a tasty bagel and coffee at Moonstruck, which also operates as a gin bar at night! As expected, we took a walk in the Botanic Gardens, which stretch into the mouth of the Noosa River. We walked into the trees along the coast for a ways, walking the trail along Doggie Beach. Doused in sunshine and feet in the water, we watched the pups splash in the water. At the Noosa River Groyne, we made friends with some curious Border Collies, who were out fishing with their dad. Inspired by the few people that began to set up their towels in the sand, we decided to go back to the beach by the hotel to get our dose of Vitamin D. We sprawled out on the sand for a while, watching the waves roll in. It was so fun to let ourselves be pummeled into the sand by the waves like we were kids again. There’s nothing like the simple joys in life! Still not full-up on water activities, we spent some more time in the pool at the hotel, mostly because the ocean has a fairly strong current and can be (less likely in Noosa) home to dangerous stingers and sharks. Since we avoided lunch that day, we decided on burgers at Grill’d, a chain you’ll spot in most Australian cities.

Waking up early the next morning, we grabbed a cuppa and a pastry to go from Hard Coffee Beach Cafe. Their banana bread cannot be missed – it’s perfectly crunchy, gooey, and best with melted butter! Once we secured the goods, we drove back down to Brisbane.

Brisbane

When we last visited Brisbane, I wasn’t left with much of an impression, mostly because we didn’t spend enough time there. This time, we had a few days to explore the city and it completely changed what I thought compared to our last visit! As it turns out, Brisbane is a cultural, artistic, and culinary hub much like its sister cities of Sydney and Melbourne.

On our first day there, we dropped our bags at the hotel and (of course) went over to the Art Museum and Gallery of Modern Art, which are located directly next to each other. Each had unique offerings, but both were airy and home to a diverse collection of artworks. Definitely worth a visit, especially on a rainy day! For lunch, we had to stop at Fishbowl! This place is a chain that can be found along the East Coast, but despite its simplicity the bowls and salads are so good! My favorite is the fried tofu bowl with spicy yuzu dressing - yum! While we were wandering towards the hotel, we searched for a small dessert and coffee, landing at Lisboa Caffe. While I didn’t have one (those pesky eggs), Jackson let the owners know that the pastry was just as he remembers it from Portugal! Later, we spent some time at our amazing aparthotel Fleet Lane Apartments, where we had two bedrooms, a massive living room, dining area, cozy kitchen, and a great balcony overlooking the train tracks to the main station. Making use of our temporary space, we spent the evening cooking dinner while dancing and drinking whiskey on the rooftop.

On the hunt for yet another bagel, we found ourselves at Cordelia for breakfast. The bagels were a tad small, but loaded with goodies. Next, we walked the halls of The Museum of Brisbane, which shares historical and contemporary Brisbane through engaging exhibits. Just when we thought we’d had enough walking already, we decided to make the most of our time by walking across downtown and exploring the waterfront. The Brisbane River is densely lined with bars and restaurants that serve any food or cocktails you might be looking for. We walked all the way back to our hotel and spent some time resting from our day’s pilgrimage. That evening, we had our (now monthly) date night by starting off with a drink at Maker, an intimate, hole-in-the-wall bar that serves great cocktails. For dinner, we didn't have to walk far and grabbed a table at Julius, an industrial-style restaurant with to-die for pasta (and other Italian dishes). Jackson and I both agreed that the Biricci al Funghi Misti - pasta with mixed seasonal mushrooms, garlic, truffle and mascarpone cream - was incredible.

Our last full day in Brisbane was spent exploring some of the outskirts of the city. Before taking our 40-minute bus to New Farm, we had to pop into Lune Croissanterie, a bakery that has a limited selection of stunning croissant pastries. We went with the classic Kougin Amann (buttery, caramelized goodness) and the F1 (a special edition Formula 1 croissant filled with Lammington cake). We also picked up a cheese & vegemite escargot for later. Each of these were very decadent, so be ready to save some goodies for later! My top pick was the savory pastry (cheese always wins), but the Kougn Amann was the perfect simple pastry. Do not miss this place! Full up on all things flakey and buttery, we rode the bus to New Farm to explore Powerhouse, which is a repurposed tram power station that now hosts concerts and other shows. While the space itself was unique, it wasn’t very interesting without tickets to a show. Nonetheless, the area is beautiful and directly on the waterfront! From there, it’s easy to take the ferry and snake your way back to the center of town. Once back at the hotel, we got ready to meet an old friend of mine for drinks and dinner. We met at The Terrace, where we were able to take in lovely views of the city by night from the rooftop. This is a great spot to experience Brissie’s nightlife and energetic heartbeat alongside lovely cocktails! The bar is very popular, even on weekdays, so make sure to book ahead or show up earlier! Continuing our boozy evening, we ended up having margs and tacos at Mucho Mexicano, which is just a few blocks away from the Emporium Hotel. We couldn’t say goodbye just yet, so we waited in line at Massina for a late-night scoop of ice cream. This isn't your regular gelato stand, but a sleek, moody cafe that serves classic flavors alongside specials like red velvet, pandan, and caramel & white chocolate. They have locations around the world, so don’t worry if you miss out!

On our last morning, we headed to Newport’s Cafe near the hotel. The cafe is tucked into the bottom of a large building and stands out with its cottage-like architecture. The cafe has two floors and offers plenty of cozy spaces to sit, the walls lined with greenery. I could have spent ages sitting at the bar by the window, sipping on a good cuppa while people-watching. Afterwards, we said goodbye to Brissie and headed off to our next, very exciting destination…

Whitsundays

The flight to Prosperpine was quick and easy, so we were on the shuttle to Airlie Beach in no time. The bus dropped us off right in front of our hostel, Magnums Airlie Beach, which is a maze of cabin-like rooms with shared bathrooms amongst a tropical forest. With little left of the day, we went to the lagoon by the beach and floated for a while as the sun went down. While Airlie is a popular spot for tourists to stay while exploring islands off of the coast, the town is pretty quiet and easy going. You’ll find fun little Aussie boutiques, energetic restaurants, and unique coffee shops along the main road through town.

We had coffee at Le Shack Cafe, where we chatted with an interesting Aussie who looked like rock n’ roll Santa and said he spent most of his time in Thailand. I admired the numerous rings that stacked on his fingers - from skulls to floral bands to the Aboriginal flag, he really had his life laid out on his hands. After a while, we checked the time and realized it was time to bid him adieu and go to the meeting point for our big day out snorkeling. We were whisked off to Airlie Beach Harbor, where we met our guides for the day. They fit us into stinger suits and provided snorkeling equipment. From there, we were split into two groups and headed off to our respective speed-catamarans. We cruised over the waves for about an hour as the guides explained the safety rules for the day and gave us a rundown of our key stops, after which we arrived at our first stop: Whitehaven Beach! We actually anchored just off of the shore on the other side of the beach, so we had to take a bit of a trek to get to the sprawling sands we had heard about. Climbing up the jungly hill, we slowly began to see the crystal clear waters through the trees. From the viewing platforms at the top, we were able to see miles of pristine beach and tropical waters! The deltas where the shallow water pooled between sandbanks formed intricate pathways of shades of blue. Yearning to feel the sand between our toes, we wandered down the path, chatting with our guides as we went. Before reaching the beach, we encountered a wild Aussie who was on the hunt for snakes, proudly exclaiming he had already caught four brown snakes (!!!). Leaving snake-man to his slithery mission, we finally landed on the blindingly bright beach and walked out to where the sand met the water. Here, we stupidly realized we hadn’t taken our stinger suits from the boat (make sure to do this if you’d like to go for a full dip), so we simply dipped a toe in the shallow areas and looked out at the surreal bay. As we watched the swimmers, we suddenly noticed movement behind us – soldier crabs! They clustered in a large group, running swiftly over the white sand. They were mesmerizing to watch, their moonstone core held up with pale legs and maroon joints. Soon after our crab encounter, we were called to head back to the boat. There, we had a massive lunch spread of salad, sandwiches, glass noodles, and potatoes. The boys running the show for Red Cat Adventures were amazing: so on top of their game, knowledgeable, passionate, and (most importantly) fun to be around! Full up on tasty food, we headed out to our first diving spot at Mantaray Bay. Here, we suited up and grabbed our snorkels before jumping into the waters. I had been a little suspicious of the water and all that lurks beneath the surface (sharks, deadly stingers, danger shells, and more), but as we explored these first reefs, I let myself forget these dangers. The first reef was a collection of algae and bright coral filled with life! Brilliant Six Banded Parrotfish, Butterfly Fish, Maori Wrasse, Sweetlip, Lionfish, and more darted among the reef. The staff rode out on the safety boat, making sure we were all comfortable and feeding fish along the way, spurring a fish frenzy below. As we wandered closer to shore, the sea life changed to include little crabs among the rocks. After nearly an hour, we loaded back onto the boat to explore our next destination: Cockatoo Point. This time, the reef was most known for its incredible coral. As we dove under, we discovered a long shelf of pristine Plate Coral, Brain Coral, Cabbage Coral, Staghorn Coral, and anemones. Amongst the muted tones, we were surprised to find bursts of intense purple, neon green, and orange hues. Feeling very happy with our underwater adventures and like we might be in need of a nap, we headed back to Airlie Beach.

The next day, we took the ferry to Hamilton Island. While the island resorts are all owned by the same company and, therefore, are rather pricey, we wanted to visit this little slice of paradise after hearing so many good things. The ferry ride took us directly to the Hamilton Island Marina, where we were immediately picked up by the hotel shuttle. We were checking in in no time at the massive reception area and were able to get into our room earlier than expected. We knew this would be quite the contrast to our nights at Airlie, as soon as we were picked up at reception and chauffeured to our private bungalow in the hills. On the way there, we were met with a wallaby, who looked expectantly at us as the golf cart slowed. Our bungalow was simple, but an absolute dream after the wooden shoe box at Magnums. We had a spacious bathroom with a great shower and a massive combined bedroom / lounge / kitchen area. This room opened up to the porch, where we could unravel the hammock to relax and look out at the greenery. Not wanting to waste any time, we flung on our swim gear and wandered down to the beach. To get there, we weaved through the hotel complex, spotting numerous other bungalows, so many wallabies, and a huge pool by the beach. Once there, we picked up our free snorkeling gear and waded in. The water was shallow for quite a while, as it was low tide at the time, so we had to walk out to reach the Hamilton Reef. There, we gently floated on the surface, just an arms length from the schools of fish and stunning coral. Suddenly, out of nowhere, we encountered a Green Sea Turtle (!!!). It was such a surreal experience to watch him swim up to grab some air and dive down right in front of us, barely inches from our faces. Just when we thought things couldn’t get any better, we encountered a huge stingray closer to shore, as well as a Flathead Shark who was burying himself in the sand to set up for his afternoon snack attack. When we were nearly out of the water, I got uncomfortably close to stepping on a giant Cone Shell, which can deliver a lethal sting with their harpoon-like darts. In celebration of our great snorkel, we decided to trek up to One Tree Hill to have a drink at sunset. Other guests were gathered there, chatting, listening to the live musician, and soaking up the last rays of the day. We sipped our cocktails and watched a cheeky crackle of cockatoos make various attempts at stealing picnic snacks. Ending our night right, we went to Coca Chu for dinner, an upscale Thai restaurant that serves a delicious range of family-style dishes. We shared a selection of the crispy silken tofu, salt & pepper squid, the vegan pad see ew, and roti bread to the sound of waves on the beach. Hilariously, we were hit with a flash of rain in the middle of dinner and struggled to close the windows in the downpour and top-speed winds. We laughed it off, feeling light and sleepy from a fulfilling day.

We woke up sad, realizing we would have to leave our new favorite island stay. For breakfast, we strolled into the marina to have pastries at Bob’s Bakery. Despite being verbally threatened by a brave cockatoo, we soaked up the last views of the harbor. The hotel offered a great service, allowing us to check out stress-free by leaving our bags in the room to be delivered directly to the airport when we were ready. Until our flight in the afternoon, we were free to continue using the amenities and areas of the hotel, so of course we wanted to try our luck at another snorkel. To our disappointment, the wind had picked up with last night’s rainstorm and was stirring up the sandy ocean floor. This made it very difficult to see and didn’t make me feel confident, given that I could step on one of those deadly shells at any moment without seeing it first. Jackson was brave enough to venture out though but didn’t see much, except a group of comb jellies. Jellies resemble jellyfish, but are entirely unrelated. They also don’t have tentacles and move about using their cilia that diffract the light to produce a shimmering effect. Once toasty from being in the sun, we showered and freshened up at the ‘Departures Lounge’ by the reception. From there, we were brought directly to the small airport and sped through security in just five minutes. The rest of our day was spent at the Qantas Business Lounge in Brisbane before flying to Sydney in the evening.

Sydney

We woke up to the sound of seagulls and the ocean just outside our hostel at Bondi Beach. Coffee in hand, we made a bee-line for the sand, digging our toes in as we watched surfers in their morning session. Especially after our long travel day, we were keen to go for a longer walk, so we continued on towards Coogee Beach. We passed Bondi Icebergs, observing swimmers take a dip in the iconic pool before work. Continuing on, we meandered the wind-sculpted sandstone rock formations on our right and the cliff drop-off into the ocean on our left. We didn’t quite make it all the way to Coogee, but spent some time watching pups chase each other at Marks Beach. We had passed another ocean pool close by so we decided to make the 30-minute trek back to the hostel to grab our swim gear. By the time we left our room, the clouds had rolled in, bringing a cool breeze that deterred us from our original plan. Instead, we discovered that there were Aboriginal rock carvings just a short walk away. To sustain our caffeine buzz, we picked up a coffee at Speedos Cafe. If you have extra time, we’d recommend indulging in a breakfast there, as their dishes are beautifully presented - from fruit towers to pancakes galore. The rock carvings were on the cliffs of the Bondi Golf Club, so beware of flying golf balls as you cross through the course! Despite their unique beauty and historic relevance, these carvings aren’t very well-protected or indicated, so you may have to search a bit before spotting them! It’s truly crazy that such special carvings of turtles, ancestors, and fish are just in the middle of a golf course! On our walk back, we wandered through the neighborhoods, taking a look at the modern homes that line the hills above the ocean. Once back at the hostel, we made use of the great free (or cheap) activities Wake Up! Offers for its guests by popping into the bar below for Happy Hour. Their mac & cheese balls are soooo good! Afterwards, we went back up to the rooftop for a hostel-organized BBQ. While attendance was fairly quiet, we munched on our nearly free dinner while overlooking Bondi Beach.

We only had the one day in Bondi, so the next morning we ventured back to Bondi Icebergs for breakfast by the pool. Typically, you’d have to pay entry to get to the cafe as it has direct access to the pool, but the Aussie guys running reception were cool about letting us go just for breakfast. While the service is fairly simple at the cafe, people continuously mill about, and it’s a tad difficult to grab a table, the views were worth the effort. I ordered the toast with butter and Gruyere, expecting a small portion. Instead, I was surprised with a comically massive slice of sourdough bread alongside hand-churned Aussie butter and thinly sliced Gruyere. While sitting there, we discovered that watching the waves roll over the corner of the ocean pool is comparable to being mesmerized by a fire. Sunkissed, fed, and happy, we headed back to the hostel to take a car into town to Wake Up! Sydney. We couldn’t check in yet and it was crazy busy in the lobby, so we dropped our bags and headed out. Our first stop was the Art Gallery of NSW, which we had visited on our last trip to Australia. This time, the standard exhibitions had been switched up and provided a completely different experience. Still, the artworks on display were all very different yet somehow found a way to harmonize with each other. Since our last visit, the museum has built another massive gallery on the north side of the complex. The building is beautifully constructed, with high airy ceilings and natural textures. The exhibitions themselves are a little more adventurous compared to the gallery next door and offer a look at modern Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander works. One work was a massive construction of stocking-like material filled with various shades of spices, dispersing the smell of curry throughout the gallery. After having lunch at Sushi Train Oxford, we finally checked into the hostel and put our feet up for a while. That night, we went for a wander around town and had a trusty girl-dinner in a small park off Broadway, where we watched a parade of dogs playing as we snacked. We had heard that there was an open tab at the bar below the hostel, so we hurried back to make it there as it opened. We managed to grab one drink and immediately got back in line to secure our second. As we waited, masses of Danish kids (probably only a few years younger than us) cut the line without a second thought. With their added numbers in the line, we were annoyed to hear the bartender hit the tab max just a few people before us. Lesson learned: get to the bar early for at least one drink, get back in line immediately, and do not let anyone weasel their way ahead of you.

As it turns out, our last day in Sydney was actually not our last day (more on this in the next post), but we tried to make the most of it as if it was. We were beginning to realize that our time living in New York really imprinted this need to seek out the nearest bagel in any city. With this invisible force driving us, we found ourselves at Brooklyn Boy Bagels for breakfast. This amazing spot is run by an American who discovered a need for the tasty rings of dough in Australia. As a true New Yorker, he was able to perfect his bagels to that desired texture and density, which he now serves with a tasty selection of cream cheeses. I ordered the Avo Smash and Jackson chose the Classic Smoked Salmon. Beyond the bagel spot, we walked through the city to Darling Harbour and on to The Rocks, where we got the best view of the Sydney Opera Hall yet! We knew we would come back here later, so we kept exploring the little neighborhoods beyond the waterfront. Here, the streets are lined with shady trees and colonial-style homes, each likely valued in the millions. Once at Circular Quay, we hopped on the ferry to Manly Beach, where we got our fill of Vitamin D. To set up our beach afternoon, we grabbed an ice cream at Anita Gelato. It was glorious to lounge on the sand, bake in the hot sun, and cool off in the waves. Jackson had a great time body-surfing the waves further out from shore and could have stayed there all day! Stupidly, we had forgotten our sunscreen, so we packed up after a while in fear of looking like lobsters. Feeling sleepy from the sun, we took the ferry back to the city, soaking up the views of the waterfront homes, Sydney Harbour Bridge, and Opera House. To add to our already rich repertoire of art museums, we stopped at the Contemporary Art Museum for a quick look. As promised, we made our way back to the Opera House to explore it up close. On our last trip, we booked a tour of the inside and were incredibly lucky to have the building for ourselves. We even wandered into a rehearsal and were able to watch the ballet dancers for a moment! Just past the Opera House, we walked around the botanical gardens (of course) and somehow found ourselves watching a wedding ceremony with postcard-views of the harbor.

W𝘦 𝘢𝘤𝘬𝘯𝘰𝘸𝘭𝘦𝘥𝘨𝘦 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘵𝘳𝘢𝘥𝘪𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘭 𝘰𝘸𝘯𝘦𝘳𝘴 𝘰𝘧 𝘵𝘩𝘪𝘴 𝘤𝘰𝘶𝘯𝘵𝘳𝘺 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘢𝘯𝘺 𝘦𝘭𝘥𝘦𝘳𝘴 𝘱𝘢𝘴𝘵, 𝘱𝘳𝘦𝘴𝘦𝘯𝘵, 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘦𝘮𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘪𝘯𝘨.