**Our Trip & Itinerary**

We spent 9 days exploring New Zealand’s north island, mainly focusing on cultural experiences and exploring it’s natural beauty. We started our trip in Auckland and spent 2 days wandering along the harbor and through some of it’s interesting museums. We then picked up our rental car and drove north up to the Waitangi Treaty grounds before heading back down south through Rotorua, Taupo, and Tongariro, before ending our north island journey in Wellington.

Auckland

The upper corners of the North Island feel like a bit of a reception area for international arrivals, dotted with cultural attractions, foreign cuisines, and an abundance of hostels and campsites. We arrived in Auckland after a rather long journey from Thailand, hoping to dive right into Kiwi culture, and found that the city offered a variety of sights to get the ball rolling on our North Island adventure. Amongst the rather metropolitan buildings, we found nooks and crannies that charmed us. Not far from the Haka House Hostel, we wandered into the Auckland Art Gallery (Toi O Tāmaki) and discovered a fascinating collection of contemporary art, unique installations, and Maori exhibitions. Each part of the museum flowed seamlessly into the next and was guided by immersive descriptions, rather unlike the usual dull explanations for art. After closing hours, the museum gardens turn into a dance floor for a local salsa group, who fill the air with Latin melodies. Only 15 minutes from the gallery, you’ll find the Auckland Domain, which is actually on the remains of the old Pukekawa volcano, which last erupted 100,000 years ago. The hilltop park features a native forest, wintergardens, sculpture walks, panoramic city views, and the Auckland War Memorial Museum. The wintergardens were spectacular, home to native and rare plants, which are housed in two glass houses erected in 1913. If you’re looking for more of a wander, stray over to the Viaduct Basin, where you’ll find an abundance of restaurants and bars with a stunning view of the harbor. Pro Tip: On the way back to the hostel, you’ll come across the Symonds Street Cemetery by Grafton Bridge, which is Auckland’s first official cemetery and was opened in 1842. Here you’ll find the graves of Auckland’s early colonists, including William Hobson, the first Governor of New Zealand and co-author of the Treaty of Waitangi (more on this later).

The food in Auckland was also quite good, despite our impression from others that New Zealand foods can be rather bland and uninteresting. Our favorite breakfast spot was Best Ugly Bagel, which seems to have a few locations in Auckland and Wellington. This spot was so fun! We watched the bagels get rolled, boiled, and topped for our breakfast basket. We ordered a TAB – tomato, avocado, and basil with a drizzle of lemon fennel olive oil – and a King Salmon, which featured smoked king salmon, Zany Zeus cream cheese, red onion, capers, dill, and lemon juice. Delightful! Alongside these delish bagels, the drip coffee will knock your socks off and fuel you for a full day of exploring! Another great spot to try is Remedy Coffee on Wellesley Street. The wooden floors, mismatched furniture, and plant collection really make this a cozy spot for a tasty butty and hot cuppa.

North of Auckland

Once we left Auckland, the roads began to narrow and become progressively windier. The landscape was stunning and quite tropical, full of palm trees and bird calls. While they were a last-minute decision, our first stop outside of the city was the Waipu Glow Worm Caves. One thing you’ll notice is that New Zealand seems to have an abundance of ways to see glow worms, whether it’s a simple walk in the woods or a guided tour into deep and low tunnels filled with ice cold water. This variation was rather pleasant and unexpected – only a few feet away from the parking lot, we dipped into a forested area and found a massive cave entrance sprawling before us. We walked in in Tevas (sandals are highly recommended), splashing through the shallow water in the dark as our eyes adjusted. Finally, as we reached the far back, the ceiling expanded into a pseudo night sky full of turquoise, glimmering glow worms. There were thousands of them!

Beyond the caves, we spent the night at the Waitangi Holiday Park, having snagged a prime campsite on the waterfront. Unknown to us at the time, we slept on very historic ground that night as we overlooked the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. It was here that in 1840, consuls for the British Crown and Māori chiefs signed New Zealand’s treaty or Te Tiriti, that would pave the way for the country and treatment of its indigenous people. We spent hours at the site after our camp, taking part in a traditional ceremony at the marae, visiting the Ngātokimatawhaorua (the world’s largest ceremonial waka canoe), and exploring the intricate museum. This is definitely worth a visit and great for getting an understanding of New Zealand’s history and changing future.

Rounding the turn onto the west coast of the North Island, you’ll discover lovely beaches and pockets filled with unexpected, rich history. One of these spots, is the Waipoua Forest – home to the massive kauri trees and in fact, the species largest specimen on the island, which spans just over 16 meters in girth. Their vastness is unlike anything you’ve ever seen, or felt, before. One of our favorite spots in this part of the island was Hot Water Beach. Despite being a bit of a tourist attraction, the spot is worth visiting. We grabbed our mini shovel supplied by the campsite and walked through the night to reach the beach. While low tide was at its peak at midnight, we went down around 10:30pm, which turned out to be a great idea because the path was empty, encouraging nocturnal animals to show themselves. We spotted glow worms along the path and encountered a very chubby (and fluffy) possum, so close we could pet it (do note: this is not advised). Once on the beach, we spotted a few other headlights and began to feel hot spots in the sand with our bare feet – some too hot to walk on. Once we found a good spot, we dug our DIY hot tub, which turned out to be harder than expected with the sand on the side sinking into our hole. After some digging, we finally had our own ‘bathtub’ under the stars. And the stars, let me tell you, were absolutely incredible – milky way, shooting stars, and all.

As you move around the North Island, you’ll find some gems in the landscape, like the Karangahake Gorge, which is a large area filled with trails and train tracks used for the gold mines located there in the 1800s. You can easily hike the tracks and follow them to damp, dark, and fascinating mining tunnels, which now open up to wide views of the valley below. A well-known gem in the area is Hobbiton. Despite being a rather touristy excursion, Hobbiton offers an interactive look at the Lord of the Rings movie set, including a new exhibition that allows you to explore a hobbit hole – try sleeping in a rather short hobbit bed or washing your hands in the stone sink! For LoTR fans and casual visitors alike, Hobbiton is a must-see New Zealand stop!

While the variety of restaurants and cuisines slims down outside of the cities, there are plenty of gems along the way! An unexpected find was So French, a Parisien cafe in the quaint little town of Warkworth. Here, you’ll find fresh pastries (croissants too, of course) and the best mocha on the North Island. Another favorite find was Third Wheel Coffee Co., nestled in an alley in the coastal town and a great spot for unique breakfast goodies and specialty coffees. And while there’s plenty of good options around, simply grabbing a wrap from Pita Pit to watch the boats chug out of Whangārei was a welcomed and simple joy.

The Way Down

We traveled down the North Island, watching the landscape change as we went. Slowly, the rolling hills become mountains – or rather, volcanoes. As you continue south, you’ll pass through Rotorua, where you’ll find a variety of different geothermal baths, a massive man-made Redwood forest, and more. One of our bigger targets on this trip was Tongariro National Park, which is home to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing track. The trail is highly frequented, so expect some traffic along the way. That said, the views are entirely worth sharing the trail. The way up is rather steep, but includes fascinating breaks through dusty volcanic craters that feel like a trip to Mars. The final stretch will leave you breathless, but you’ll be met with surreal views of the Emerald Lakes, the Blue Lake, Mount Ngauruhoe, and volcanic steam rising from the cracks in the mountain. If you plan on making a longer stop at the Alpine Crossing, have another wander towards Taranaki Falls, which takes you through a lovely valley of Manuka bushes on a loop trail to the falls. Pro Tip: Stay at the Skotel Alpine Resort for your time in the park. They offer a variety of different accommodation options, from lodge to hostel bunks, as well as transportation to the trailhead, a fun bar & restaurant, and a post-hike hot tub (this is VERY nice and available for private bookings).

Beyond Tongariro, some key stops to make are at Tawhai Falls – for a cool dip in the pools – and Ohakune, which is an energetic, yet laid-back little ski town with fun little bars, restaurants, shops, and boutiques. Ohakune is also known as the Carrot Capitol, as the volcanic soil provides farmers with the perfect basis for carrot farming. Just before Wellington, make sure to stop at the Waireka Honey Shop to taste test a wide variety of different New Zealand honies, honey-infused liquors, and ice creams!

With large stretches of land on the road to Wellington, places to grab a bite to eat may seem a little scarce. Still, ski towns like Ohakune that operate during the summer months are home to some amazing spots. Our favorite in Ohakune, for example, was Utopia Cafe. They have tasty homemade treats, hearty fresh meals, and very good coffee!

Wellington

Simply put: Wellington is a hoot and a half! The city is so vibrant, artsy, and the perfect spot for a fun night out. We stayed at the Microtel Wellington, where we were able to book a super modern, spacious room with an ensuite bathroom and massive windows with city views. All that for less than the price of a hostel!

Wellington is a very walkable city, inspiring a bit of wander. We recommend just letting yourself drift through the city, stumbling into restaurants, cafes, galleries and more along the way. One of these places is The Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), but beware, you’ll likely need a solid few hours to wander here. The museum houses a great collection of Māori art and history, so it acts as an interesting complement and full-circle moment to the Auckland Art Gallery. A great place to explore for a while is Cuba Street, which is where the young crowd goes to shop, eat, and drink. To match the artsy, energetic vibe of the city, you’ll spot vintage boutiques, secondhand shops, community coffee spots, and award-winning restaurants here.

Wellington is also home to literally any cuisine you might be craving, so your visit may actually turn into a coffee and food crawl! On our first night, we went to Rock Yard, which is a cozy Vietnamese spot in the center of town that has truly massive and delicious dishes for everyone. On our next and only full day in Wellington, we stopped by Swimsuit, which is highly recommended both by people on the web and the actual New Zealand website! The baristas there ooze an effortless cool, their arms tattooed and noses pierced, and the plants create a space that welcomes work-from-anywhere (WFA) guests. The coffee was lovely and is best accompanied by their famous cheese scone. Make sure to get there early to secure it though, as it sells out quickly. A great place to grab an afternoon bite or a full meal is Kisa, a Middle Eastern restaurant that serves plates of smooth hummus and tasty goodies from the grill. Their lunch deal is great – just pick your protein and add it to the mezze plate, which includes incredible dips, bread, and pilaf all for 23 NZD or 14 USD. And finally, what’s a trip to Wellington without eating beef wellington? Although thought to be named after the first Duke of Wellington in Great Britain, the dish has found its way onto menus around the country, most prominently (of course) in Wellington. According to past visitors and our experience, you’ll find the best one in the city at the Tasting Room, where it’s paired best with one of their many wines, beers, or ciders.