The North

The upper portion of the South Island is the continuation of what we just covered on the North Island – sprawling rocky beaches, coastal towns, and cultural centers that explain New Zealand’s rich history. To reach the northern tip of the South Island, you’ll take the 3-hour ferry from Wellington to Picton. Once dropped off, drive through coves and farmland to Nelson, a small seaside town a couple of hours away. Here, you’ll be welcomed by the soothing squawk of seagulls, fishing boats chugging into the harbor, and the faint smell of fish & chips in the air. If you are able to budget more time along the northern coast, make sure to explore Abel Tasman National Park, wander along the towns of Golden Bay (Mohua), and ultimately reach the famous rock formations at Wharariki Beach.

While our time up North was rather brief, we did encounter some delicious food. A spot we’ve already recommended to many fellow travelers is Anchor, a small restaurant tucked behind some industrial buildings on an unsuspecting road. Once you pop through the front door, you’ll spot the large windows on the other side of the restaurant that open up to picturesque views of the Nelson Marina. Sat at the picnic tables outside, you can enjoy anything from the land and sea, although we recommend ordering seafood, as it’s likely made its way from the boat to your plate just that morning. Alongside deliciously fresh food, Anchor offers views of the sailboats coming and going out of Port Nelson, as well as the occasional sting ray that glides along the edges of the water, right past your table.

Not far from Nelson, we recommend you stay in the McKee Memorial Reserve if you’re camping. This spot may seem rather plain at first, but is full of little wonders. The campsite is clean and spacious, allowing you to pick any spot you please if you arrive earlier in the afternoon. Just beyond a slight ridge by the camp lies the beach. We arrived at low tide and were able to meander along the beach for miles, which is absolutely littered with Cooks Turban seashells. If you’re lucky, you might be able to find a nearly untouched one, a shimmering spiral among the driftwood. At high tide, the entire beach disappears, leading the waves right to your doorstep beyond the ridge. Another fun addition to the camp are the curious and rather silly weka birds. These are found on most parts of the island and are often mistaken for kiwis, despite their gangly legs. While they have some endearing qualities, beware: these cheeky buggers aren’t afraid to sneak right up to your dinner in search of snacks!

The West Coast

We decided to explore the west coast of the South Island first, slowly making our way along the coast until we reached the mountains. We cut down from Nelson, passed through Murchison, and crossed over into Charleston along the borders of Paparoa National Park. Here, the landscapes began to resemble Hawaii – lined with palm trees, white sandy beaches, and the occasional flight of colorful parrots. You’re in for a treat if you stop in Punakaiki Beach, which is home to the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes Track. Make a trip here in the morning, when the crowds are still asleep and the sunlight adds a glow to the unreal rock formations that dive right into the waves. While the tides may not always be in your favor for the blowholes, the calm of the morning and rock arches are truly worth the trip. As you move along the coast, you’ll begin to see hills rise out of the landscape, later morphing into mountains. Two must-see spots along the Southern Alps are, of course, the Franz Josef (Waiau) and Fox Glaciers. Franz Josef (Waiau) is a lovely spot, where you can walk up a short track that ends in a viewing platform. If you time your visit right, you’ll avoid larger crowds by going in the late afternoon, when you can quietly watch the clouds roll over the mountain tops and butterflies float across the glacial horizon. Before you head out of town, grab a coffee and a snack and check out the West Coast Wildlife Center. Here, you’ll be able to see endangered kiwis during their stay at the juvenile sanctuary, a key transitional home before they’re released back into the wild in predator-free zones around the South Island. One thing to consider: the center and third parties like Viator advertise the possibility of seeing incubated kiwi eggs or baby birds, despite the fact that the center has not received either for two years, due to the shift to predator management.

The Fox Glacier is a tad more difficult to reach, as the Valley Walk has now been partially closed to daily visitors after severe rain damage two years ago. That said, if you’re keen to get closer to the glacier, we’d recommend opting for a helicopter tour or a guided hike that allows you to cross the partial closure. Another great spot to view the glacier from afar is from the Te Kopikopiko O Te Waka Peak View, just off the road on the way to Gillespies Beach. The view here encompasses all things New Zealand – endless fields, grazing cows, snow-capped mountains, and the winding glacier as the centerpiece. While Gillespies Beach is also a great place to stay the night, the slight detour is still worth the visit. A dirt road brings you to the beach, which has two functioning toilets and plenty of picnic spots to choose from. While you might want to wander right onto the beach, opt for the path behind the sand instead. This will lead you along a trail filled with bumblebees to the ruins of an old gold dredge from the late 1800s, where old gears and carts fill the marshy spot. A secret tip from here is to continue following the path around the top of the ruins, as it guides you into the swamp. Miraculously, someone has covered the path in perfectly rounded rocks from the beach, which wind their way through the lush, verdant trees as sunlight peaks through the canopy. As the path’s only visitors, it truly felt like exploring a fairytale forest! The trail brings you to the far end of the beach and to the mouth of Gillespies Lagoon, an inlet home to black swans and unbelievable views of the Southern Alps. Arriving here just before sunset is the perfect timing, inviting light pastels to spill over the mountain range and allowing enough time for a pre-sunset walk back to the campsite. Once back, you’ll have a chance to set up a little beach campfire to watch the most incredible sunset. The pastels change slowly, shifting into deep oranges, rich reds, and crisp yellows over the horizon. To our surprise, the sunset lasted in this intensity for nearly an hour – the colors dimming to purples, pinks, and blues as the moon rose to take the sun’s place for the night. A bit of a drive down the coast from Gillespies Beach, lies Jackson Bay. This quiet spot is barely a town, but is home to The Craypot, a cozy seafood restaurant that brings freshly caught fish straight to your plate by being situated next to the town fishery. They also have a delicious vegetarian option with the halloumi salad. Small disclaimer: Gillespies Beach and other coasta areas have many sandlies, so prepare accordingly by wearing long clothing and using NZ bug sprays like REPEL.

The South

The furthest parts of the South Island are what lures in and fascinates people from all corners of the world and from all walks of life, no matter how outdoorsy they are. The Milford Sound is, by far, the most popular corner of New Zealand, as proven by the hordes of tour buses that make their way into the Fjordland National Park. While the thought of mingling with the masses might not be what you’re looking for, Milford Sound (and the journey there) absolutely cannot be missed. Simply driving into the park is an experience! The road opens up to the vast Eglinton Valley lined with peaks and grounded in tranquil grasses. As you head towards the Homer Tunnel, you’ll discover stops along the way that are well-worth hitting those breaks – Mirror Lakes for cool reflections of the mountains, Monkey Creek for cheeky keas and stunning vistas, and (just past the tunnel) the 1855 Lookout for an impressive rock wall of waterfalls. After some slight adjustments to our trek on the Routeburn (more on this later), we were left with an extra day to spend in the Sound. Our blessing in disguise allowed us to scope out a boat tour for the day, which is truly the best way to see the fjord-like landscape and spectacular waterfalls that pour into the ocean. Not to mention, we also managed to get up close to a Fjordland penguin right before boarding our boat, which is rather rare in the Summer months! We had booked the Boutique Small Boat Cruise, which is exactly what it advertises to be. Rather than being herded into a large boat with a few hundred other tourists, our tour was on a vessel half the size, allowing us to get up close and personal to the cliffs, seals, and waterfalls. We went out on a perfectly sunny day, so we had pristine views of the entire Sound. The waterfalls cast rainbows, drenching us in cool alpine water (or a ‘glacial facial’ as it’s called by guides) as we skirted underneath them, and the seals baked in the heat on large rocks along the cliffs. While our only available day happened to be clear and sunny, we’d recommend heading out on rainy days, as the waterfalls fill up and spill from the cliffs – it’s meant to be truly incredible! We returned from our boat ride feeling rather chuffed and relaxed ahead of our through hike on the Routeburn.

If you’re looking to hike the Routeburn, or any major NZ trail for that matter, make sure to purchase your permit and book accommodation at least six months in advance, as they are limited and sell out quickly. We managed to snag a booking for the full trek, but unfortunately showed up to the wrong starting point a day before our departure. This meant we could either head out to the other end with 5 hours (or more) of driving and miss the Milford Sound OR reshuffle our booking to do an overnight at the Lake McKenzie hut and head back to The Divide the next day. We chose the latter to make the most of our time in the park and despite the frustrating faux pas, we found it to be the best decision either way. Our trek began rather gruelingly, as we experienced heavy and persistent rain for most of the ascent. That said, the views that appeared when the sun peeked through the clouds made the tricky journey to the hut worthwhile. Even with the unfortunate weather report, we were met with an incredible diversity in the landscape – from thick forest, to mountain orchards, and powerful alpine waterfalls. One of our favorite parts was Earland Falls, as the path leads right along the base of where the water crashes onto the rocks, sending fierce gusts of wind and water onto hikers for a refreshing shower. As we headed back down the trail the next morning, we decided to toss our heavy packs into the bushes at the Key Summit turnoff. We climbed up the steep, winding trail to discover the most jaw-dropping views of the Fjordland’s incredible peaks, valleys, and scattered waterfalls. Watching the light pour into the valley that holds Lake Marian and cover it in a gold sheen was a sight we won’t forget! Another great trek that can be done in segments or a multi-day trip is the Kepler Track, which is loaded with great views and manageable terrain. Disclaimer: Keep track of weather ahead of your trek, ensuring you’ve packed the right gear and are ready for more challenging conditions. Some of the tracks get very flooded during heavier periods of rain (even in the Summer), where rain gear is encouraged and hikes may involve wading through knee to waist-high water.

Once we said our goodbyes to the Fjordland National Park, we decided to head back towards the center of the South Island to explore the other side of the Southern Alps. To do so, we made our way out of the park and drove towards Queenstown, watching the landscape become more vast and barren as we climbed above the treeline. Once we crested this pass, we looked over the deep valley, rolling hills, and vast lakes that led the way into Queenstown. This few-hour, winding drive into the city is just breath-taking and offers great spots to view Lake Wakatipu. Make sure to stop in Kingston to see the Kingston Flyer, a recently restored British train and railway track that operates a cozy route on weekends. Queenstown itself is a town filled with activities, yet it exudes a calming energy and inspires visitors to take it easy. Fancy yourself a round of mini golf, hike or take the gondola up the Skyline viewpoint, read a book on the shore of Queenstown Gardens, or sip a pint while watching live music at one of the many pubs.

The Way to Christchurch

After just a few days in Queenstown, we had our fill of city life and left for the last leg of our trip. Just outside of Queenstown, we’d recommend taking a slight detour to Arrowtown. The sleepy town reminds of the Hamptons, where the streets are lined with historic little cottages and the main street houses many boutiques and art galleries. Not only can you grab a great bite to eat here or go for a shop, but the Chinese Settlement adds a dash of culture to the equation. It is here that Chinese miners found a home when they came to New Zealand in search of better livelihoods to support their families overseas. Arrowtown has restored and reconstructed buildings from the community that made a huge impact on the region. Heading out of Arrowtown, you’ll find yourself back in the Otago Valley, which has become a popular wine region in recent decades, thanks to its advantageous location on the same latitude as the Willamette Valley in Oregon. As you meander the vast plains, we’d recommend stopping at one of the many wineries in the area – our favorite being Kinross, where you can try wines from five different micro-wineries in their newly-built, modern cellar door. If you’re looking for a great spot on the way back up, stop in Wānaka! Here, you’ll be able to see the famous Wānaka Tree (a tree that miraculously spouted out of an old fence and continued to grow when the lake flooded) and grab a bite from Charlie Brown Crêpe (truly the most incredible crêpe we’ve had), which is part of the cheese and pastry shop next door – the croissants are to die for.

After exploring the grapevines, we turned off towards Twizel, where we spent some time at Lake Pukaki. The lake stands out from the landscape in its piercing blue, thanks to its glacial source at the mouth of the lake. Taking a dip here can be a tad chilly, but worth the initial gasp due to the empty swimming spots and views of Mount Cook. Needless to say, we had to head back to the Southern Alps, where we made sure to spend the night at White Horse Hill Campground at the base of Mount Sefton, so we could wake up to the snowy, rugged peaks directly above our tent in the morning. Just off the campsite is the Hooker Valley Track, which is one of the most impressive treks of our trip. While you’ll encounter plenty of tourists on the trail, the hike will take you over multiple swing bridges with views of the entire alpine range, occasional glacier calving, and turquoise mountain rivers. Once you reach the end of the trek, make sure to spend a moment soaking it all up, as you’ll be able to have a snack or a peaceful look over the vast glacial lake, which is filled with icebergs and at the base of Mount Cook. If you have some time before heading out of the national park, make sure to stop at the museum in the Village to learn about the countless explorers who have scaled the icey walls of Mount Cook. Additionally, take a little detour off the road to Tasman Glacier Viewpoint for a quick, yet steep hike to panoramic views of the Tasman glacial lake. Beyond the park, if you’re lucky enough to go through Lake Tekapo in the southern hemisphere Spring, stop at the sensational lupin fields that line the lake. Unfortunately, they were already out of bloom when we were there, but they explode into spectacular pinks and violets in late-November and December.

For our final stop, we found ourselves in Christchurch. Unfortunately for me (Sarah), I was stuck in the emergency room and bound to our hotel for quite some time, thanks to successfully tearing my medial meniscus in an effort to leave our tent on the morning of our last camping night. Jackson, nonetheless, still made an effort to explore while I fell into old rhythm of binge watching a show while propping up my useless knee. Christchurch, as I can attest to from a small excursion close to the hotel and photos from Jackson, is home to modern architecture, fun art galleries, any cuisine you can dream up, and coffee shops galore. We’d recommend spending two or more days here to truly enjoy those last deep breaths of fresh, New Zealand air.