**Our Trip & Itinerary**

Japan has so much to offer beyond its mega-cities! While Tokyo, Osaka, and Fukuoka are all amazing cities in their own right, getting into smaller cities and towns offers the chance to get closer to traditional culture! We spent just over a week visiting some of these smaller cities and towns, discovering several true hidden gems in Japan. While we had originally intended to do some driving in the countryside during this portion of our trip, those hopes were foiled by the car rental rules in Japan. Tourists intending to rent a vehicle must bring with them an International Driver's Permit, something neither of us had thought about since we’ve never needed one in all our previous travels! Moving past this small hiccup, we were still able to take in much of what the smaller towns in Japan have to offer.

Nara // Overview

Many people, if they even have Nara on their itinerary, only travel to Nara for a day-trip. For most, the goal is to interact with the bowing deer – I know, this sounds crazy, but it’s the truth! These little sika deer have learned to bow at the sight of rice crackers, some even know to bow only once you do! The population is so used to this silly tourist ritual that we found that even fawns pick up the move rather quickly. While the bowing deer are a clear reason to visit Nara, it has much more to offer! From beautiful temples to traditional crafts and artisans, it’s easy to fill a couple days there. We stayed at a one hundred year old Ryokan, a traditional wooden Japanese inn, where we slept on futons and tatami mats on a bamboo floor. This hotel was a perfect way to spend one night in Nara, full of character and history, much like the town itself. The highlights for us included exploring Tōdai-ji temple, home to the world’s largest bronze statue of the Buddha, and watching the mochi pounding at Nakatanidou.

Nara // Our Favorites:

Nara Park – Deer for miles! As mentioned, Nara is most known for its park, which is filled with sika deer. Here, the deer roam freely, casually stopping traffic and begging for snacks. Their bowing talent is silly, but you’ll find yourself bowing to dozens of deer throughout your walk!
Tōda-ji Temple – Don’t miss Tōda-ji Temple while you’re in the park. While you’ll see plenty of temples in Japan, this one is unique in that it’s nestled in thick forest. Built in 738 CE and rebuilt with small adaptations after destructive fires three times since then, it is now home to the world's largest bronze Buddha statue. The main temple is impressive, but pathways surrounding it lead to several small shrines sprinkled among the trees. While we were there, we were lucky to watch a Hōnō-enbū demonstration that is only held once per year to celebrate the birth of this martial art at the To temple.
Aka Tombo Coffee – We’ve found a lot of unique coffee shops so far in Japan, but this is the first one that doubles as an English language school on its second floor. Run by a Japanese-Australian couple, the drinks here really combine the best of both worlds: top-notch Aussie coffee with rich Japanese tea culture. As an added bonus, they have toasties (with Marmite!) that taste just like your back in Sydney or Melbourne.
Nakatanidou Mochi – This is another popular spot with tourists, primarily for their mochi-tskui demonstrations where rice dough is pounded in an usu (large stamp mill). One mochi master pounds the dough with a kine (a massive pestle), while the other quickly flips the dough with his hands. These masters have impeccable timing, accompanying their ceremony with shouts and grunts! One tip on these demonstrations - while it's very cool to see, they happen at unpredictable intervals and only last for a few minutes, so it’s easy to miss if you’re not in the right place at the right time. Stick around nearby, if you can and claim your spot at the window for a good view!

Kyoto // Overview

Kyoto is a culturally rich city and offers a look at Japan unspoiled by the destruction of World War Two. United States Secretary of War Henry Stimson famously advocated to spare Kyoto from allied bombing during the war, as the beauty of the city had a special place in his heart. We couldn’t agree more – the winding ancient streets, the secretive Geisha district, stunning gardens, and amazing temples all help to keep pre-war Japan alive and well. We spent three days exploring as much of the city as we could, but there is probably enough in Kyoto to fill a five day itinerary. As has become standard for our time in Japan, our highlights for Kyoto included some amazing temples and traditional gardens. There are so many amazing temples to choose from, but the Fusimi Inari Torii Gates are worth the train ride from the center of town. Kyoto is also home to a beautiful Imperial Palace, giving an up close look at the life of Japan’s most influential families. Beyond activities, Kyoto has an endless selection of restaurants and bars, many along the Kamo River or in one of the many winding sideroads that criss-cross the city, including Sasora Bar and Sukiro Tempura.

Kyoto // Our Favorites:

Fushimi Inari Torii Gates – Easily one of the highlights for us during our entire time in Japan were the famous Fushiimi Inari Orange Torii gates. As a prayer for success and prosperity, the thousands of gates throughout the temple complex were donated to the temple by individual businesses over the past 400 years. Along the winding pathways up the hill, you’ll find dozens of individual shrines for different religious purposes, each with their own sets of gates – some small, others made of bamboo. Pro tip: arrive at the temple as early in the morning as you’re able to beat the crowd, we went at 6:00 AM and saw only a fraction of the tourists experienced at busy times.
Kyoto Imperial Palace – The Kyoto Imperial Palace is the former seat of the Imperial family of Japan, before the Meiji Emperor restored the Imperial throne and moved the primary residence to Tokyo. The grounds are still occasionally used by Imperial Family members and you still have to go through a security screening to enter the grounds. One thing to note, while the buildings and gardens are very impressive from the outside, you won’t actually be able to enter any of the palace structures to get a close look.
Heian Temple and Gardens – Near the museum area of Kyoto lies Heian Temple and its gardens. While the temples themselves are not particularly historic, only built in 1895, the structures themselves are still gorgeous. Alongside the gardens, the main selling point for Heian are its gardens. Stretching over 8 acres, they were some of the best we’ve seen in Japan and feature an expanse of sections that focus on elements of a typical Japanese garden.
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest – On the far western side of Kyoto you’ll find the beautiful Arashiyama Bamboo Forest with towering bamboo trees reaching 20 meters into the sky. While it’s typical to see bamboo all over the world, especially in Japan, these sage green bamboo stalks really are a sight to behold. While this is another tourist hotspot, which brings with it the typical crowds, it's still worth the trek out from central Kyoto as you can combine the forest with Tenryu-ji Temple and the Sogenchi Teien gardens.
%Arabica Kyoto Arashiyama - Around the corner from Tenryu-ji Temple and the Bamboo forest is Arabica Coffee. This little coffee cube is right on the banks of the Katsura River and often commands a long line to wait for the perfect cup, but let me tell you it’s worth it! Arabica’s coffee alongside one of their delectable apple desserts is to die for!
Philosopher’s Path – Stretching for 2 kilometers along an irrigation canal from Lake Biwa, this cherry tree lined walk is one of Japan’s most picturesque spots during blossom season. Originally constructed in 1890, the spot has recently become a social media hot-spot. We managed to catch the tail-end of the cherry blossom season, so it was relatively quiet. Especially in the off-season, it’s easy to take a moment of peace to philosophize on life biggest questions.
Gion Geisha District – Another fascination that Kyoto is famous for, are its many Geishas. With a rich history going back over 800 years, Geishas are one of Japan's most interesting cultural elements. Their personas are steeped in mystique, inviting you to see and learn more about them, but only by going to one of their shows or restaurants. We were determined to spot a Geisha and had heard of the Gino district as a prime spot for sightings. At first, we were discouraged, but as dusk turned to night, we were caught glimpses of these mysterious ladies as they hurried down alleyways to their respective theaters. Please note: In the Gino district there are rules around photographing Geishas without their consent. If you ask nicely, many will allow you to take their photo while they’re on the move. Be sure to give them their space!
Sukiro – With a hankering for tempura, we found ourselves at Sukiro. The restaurant is very small, seating a maximum of five people, and serves dishes in a traditional way. Each piece of tempura was made right in front of us and accompanied with different salts, homemade dashi broth, and dips.

Kanazawa // Overview

Kanazawa is definitely a city that sees far fewer western tourists, and we felt as though we were among only a handful of other westerners during our time. By far, the main attraction in Kanazawa is the Kenrokuen Garden, which is rated one of the top three gardens in Japan. Based on our extensive (and unplanned) garden research, we actually found this to be the best one of our trip! During our two full days in Kanazawa, we visited the garden twice and for over an hour each time. The perfectly manicured orchards, moss beds, shrubs, and meandering streams were truly incredible.

Kanazawa // Our Favorites:

Kenrokuen Garden – Easily the biggest highlight of our time in Kanazawa was the Kenrokuen Garden. Spread across 25 acres, the garden has over 15 different areas, highlighting diverse types of gardens. The Niwashi are all meticulously detailed in their work, making sure each piece of grass or branch on a tree is exactly where it’s meant to be. It’s incredible to watch them work, shielded from the sun with their kasa (Japanese straw hats), plucking every stray weed and sweeping up fallen blossoms. Some of the trees have been shaped for the past two hundred years, bound to grow in predetermined directions over decades – the long-term precision to grow them truly boggles the mind.
Kanazawa Castle – Just across the street from Kenrokuen Gardens you’ll spot Kanazawa Castle, towering above the rest of the city. While there are only two small original pieces of the castle that remain, the government is working to rebuild the rest of the spaces using traditional practices. Going into one of the wall defenses they’ve rebuilt, demonstrated the strong commitment to maintaining historical builds and heritage sites. Be sure to explore the rest of the hill, where the castle once stood as it is now being reclaimed by the forest, partially hiding some of the statues and carved rocks from the original structure.
Hirami Pan – Our favorite breakfast spot in Kanazawa was definitely Hirami Pan, a small little bakery with amazing pastries, alongside a few more substantial breakfast offerings. While coffee culture is huge in Japan, the coffee here was among the best we’ve had on our whole trip and the vibe of the restaurant reminded us of Coffee Man in Fukuoka, another one of our favorites.
Nomura-ke Samurai Residence – To learn more about Samurai culture and explore what remains of a Shogun era samurai residence, head to the Nomura-ke home. Originally belonging to the Nomura Denbei Nobusada family, much of the house is still in its original condition, though some areas have been deconstructed, moved, and then reconstructed. The house is also where you’ll find a beautiful meandering stream through the backyard space and a small tea room with the shortest door I’ve ever encountered.
Kanazawa Shrine – You’d be forgiven for thinking you're still in Kenrokuen Garden when walking into this shrine, as its garden blends seamlessly into its neighbor. Built in 1794 by a feudal lord, it is dedicated to a snake god who could prevent disaster, something I’m all for. While it’s not the biggest or most ornate shrine in Kanazawa, it offers a tranquil escape and its gardens are a nice extension to your time at Kenrokuen.

Nagano // Overview

While Nagano is not typically on many first time visitors itineraries, we had a fantastic experience in this surprising destination. Nagano is primarily a winter destination, as it’s surrounded by ski resorts in the Japanese Alps and various arenas that were used in the 1998 Winter Olympics. Our visit in late spring meant that snow activities were not in the cards, but Nagano surprised us with all it had to offer. The highlight for us was definitely the Snow Monkey Park, roughly 40 minutes by bus from the main train station. Being surrounded by hundreds of very confident and silly monkeys is not a memory I will soon forget! We also had the most amazing AirBnB hosts of our entire lives, Satsuki & Isao, who made us feel at home immediately and even drove us (along with our mountain of bags) to the station the next morning so we didn’t have to call a cab.

Nagano // Our Favorites:

Snow Monkey Park – We have been looking forward to going here for many years, each time we talked about Japan it was always near the top of our must-do activities. Snow Monkey Park was opened in 1964, after the locals noticed the macaques coming down from the mountains to bathe in their onsens. Before its construction, a war with the monkeys ensued and led to some bloody encounters. The construction of the park intended to stop the battle of the primates by providing the monkeys a bath of their own. Thankfully, the furry mountain macaques took to their new hang-out spot and have made the journey from the hills every morning. Be prepared for these fellas scuffling, cuddling, and sunbathing at your feet!
Zenkoji Temple – At the top of Nagano’s main street lies the Zenkoji Temple complex. A cluster of 8 temples that is also home to the Shinshu Zenkoji Hombo Daikanjin, the final resting place for the remains of 2.4 million Japanese soldiers who died during various conflicts. There are many different memorial areas at Zenkoji, including ones for victims of different earthquakes and one where parents memorialize their children who died from illnesses at a young age. While the space can feel quite heavy, the memorials and main temple offer a beautiful complex to discover.
Yudanaka Station Foot Baths & Onsen – A long hike to see the monkeys warrants a hot spring footbath, doesn’t it? Duhhh, of course it does! While you’re waiting for the train at Yudanaka Station, treat yourself (and your sore feet) with a free dip in the public hot spring bath.

Matsumoto // Overview

Our final stop in the Japanese Alpine country was Matsumoto, mostly known for its impressive castle. While Matsumoto is not a bustling tourist town, there are a number of great activities to fill a day or two. The castle is rated one of Japan’s best and, unlike many others, is mostly in its original condition. Some renovation works are being carried out to maintain the original structure in hopes of avoiding a completely new build. The castle is particularly beautiful at night, when its main tower structure is lit up and reflects on the mirror smooth moat that surrounds the grounds. Matsumoto is also home to Yayoi Kusama gallery at the Matsumoto Museum of Art, which is a small but mighty gallery. For the more outdoorsy tourist, there are a huge number of good hikes in the mountains surrounding the city, but be aware that Spring winds can periodically carry desert sands over from China, leaving the views in an orange haze.

Matsumoto // Our Favorites:

Matsumoto Castle – The castle was built in 1594 and was the first castle primarily designed for gun warfare. The castle has a great exhibit that showcases what early Japanese guns looked like and how warfare transitioned from traditional Samurai combat to gun warface in the late 1800’s. However, the grounds are still recovering from an earthquake in 2011 so some of the building’s spaces are shut to visitors right now for safety reasons.
Matsumoto Museum of Art – While definitely not the largest museum we’ve been to in Japan, this art space punches above its weight. Their Yayoi Kusama exhibit does a great job showcasing a timeline of her works, and includes one of her famous infinity mirror rooms. There are also two smaller galleries to explore, highlighting local artists and traditional art from the region.
Slow Train Through The Mountains – While not technically in Matsumoto, we elected to take the slow train over the mountains to reach our final Shinkansen back to Tokyo, instead of the faster connection through some tunnels through the range. We were so glad we did because this slow meander through the alpine hills gave us a great look at small rural villages, as well as excellent views of little waterfalls and streams above the glacial valleys.

Where We Stayed: