Trip Report - Japan | Tokyo & Mount Fuji
Overview // Tokyo
Putting the Tokyo experience into words is terribly tricky. The city is a massive expanse and there’s something to see around every corner. The city has so many energetic areas that are somehow in perfect balance with quiet streets or unexpectedly calm temples. In the busiest parts, there’s something for everyone, whether it be every food on the map, shopping, art exhibitions, or cultural landmarks. We spent about a week in Tokyo, but could have stayed much longer, as there’s so much left to see in the outer suburbs. While Tokyo can feel overwhelming at times and your feet might hurt like never before from walking 20+ kilometers a day, the best you can do is take it slow, absorb it all, and let yourself wander.
Our Favorites // Tokyo:
Senso-ji Temple – Our first stop in the city was, you guessed it, a temple! Not just any temple – the largest temple in Tokyo and a key destination if you’re looking to squeeze in a bit of culture. It is Tokyo’s oldest established temple, having been founded in 645 AD.
Yanaka – Yanaka is a secluded, quiet part of Tokyo that makes you feel like you’ve suddenly traveled out to the countryside. While this may sound like a creepy activity, there’s a massive graveyard in the area with beautiful old trees and lovely traditional gravestones. Once you’ve had enough of the local ghosts, you can walk out of the gates to wander through old Shitamachi houses that famously survived WWII bombings, the Great Kanto Earthquake, and the fire of 1923.
Meiji Shrine – This shrine is yet another Tokyo staple and is quite impressive, as its tranquil garden grounds sprawl amongst the closely-built skyline. The main temple is quite large and features a golden Buddha as its centerpiece.
Shinjuku Gyoen National Gardens – We’ve seen some lovely gardens during our time in Japan, but the Shinjuku Gyoen National Gardens are worth a visit! They are sprinkled with bright blossoms, otherworldly trees with roots that grow skywards above the ground, and tranquil areas to enjoy a picnic.
Cat Street – Cat Street is an eclectic and very busy area of the city. It features small, multi-story buildings with endless clothing shops and restaurants on each floor. This is a great place to grab a window seat and watch Tokyo’s unique fashion come to life.
Shibuya Crossing – Shibuya is one of Tokyo’s most well-known attractions. The wild and brightly-lit crossing is best observed at night or in the rain, when the billboards and neon signs twinkle a little extra. Just off of the crossing, you can pay the Hachiko statue a visit, which is in tribute to a dog who waited nine years at the Shibuya Station for his owner to come home, without knowing he had fallen ill and was never to return.
Nezu Museum – The museum houses a wonderful private collection of pre-modern Japanese and East Asian art, acquired by Nezu Kaichirō. The museum also boasts a stunning garden alongside its sleek modern design.
National Art Center – The Art Center houses a vast collection of modern art, as well as special exhibitions. During our visit, I had the pleasure of exploring the Matisse exhibit that featured a recreation of his Chapelle du Rosaire de Venice. Once a year for nearly 120 years, the museum displays a massive selection of art by young artists sponsored by The Taiheiyo Art Association.
Tokyo Tower – While there are plenty of highrises in Tokyo, Tokyo Tower is an iconic way to see the impressive expanse of the city from above and to truly contextualize how big it really is. Fair word of caution though: the tickets aren’t cheap!
Zojoji Temple – This temple houses the tombs of six Tokugawa shoguns and is the only temple structure to have survived the bombings of WWII.
KAMATA Hakensha – While we had already gone on a mission to purchase a few knives as gifts in Kyoto, we were looking for something unique and with a history in Tokyo. In our search, we landed on Kamata, which has been around since 1923. All knives are handmade and many are adorned with detailed engravings or patterns on the knife blade, most for a reasonable price Unsurprisingly, the knives are all very sharp (even the ones displayed), so keep caution when handling them! I managed to nearly slice my finger off, so I clearly didn’t follow my own advice…
TeamLab Planets & Borderless – Planets and Borderless are both now iconic to Tokyo, but offer a very different immersive art experience. We enjoyed Planets the most, as the exhibition asks visitors to use all of their senses; some areas require you to remove your shoes to walk through water, others use fragrances to enhance the experience. Borderless, on the other hand, is a fluid exhibit, where sounds and visuals bleed into each other from room to room. Both are definitely worth a visit and are rather affordable, given their popularity!
Yuzu Vegan Ramen – Just outside Borderless Planets, you’ll find yourself at Yuzu Vegan Ramen. Although it's a rather small space and it can take some time to receive your order, this is easily the best vegan/vegetarian ramen I have ever had. The broth is perfectly creamy, the noodles are chewy, and the toppings pair amazingly well. I have dreeaamed about this ramen!
Tsukiji Fish Market – The Tsukiji Fish Market is easily one of the most iconic sights of Tokyo, given its extensive history. The market as it stands now was only established in 1923, but the area welcomed fishermen to sell their goods to the Edo Castle in the 1500s. The market begins the auction to wholesalers in the inner market at 5am, but the wider market is open to tourists later in the morning. It is best to head there around 9:30 am, when the tuna has been delivered from Toyosu Market and can be enjoyed as fresh sushi!
Imperial Palace – The palace is the current and main residence of Japan’s Emperor, so most areas are blocked off for security and privacy reasons. Nonetheless, it's worth wandering the outer grounds along the moat to see the guards and impressive structures from afar!
Shimokitazawa – This was one of my favorite areas! No...not because of the endless shopping opportunities, but because of the eclectic people that wander the streets! The neighborhood is loaded with great vintage boutiques that feature American College paraphernalia, as well as trendy coffee shops and brewpubs tucked into the chaos. I think of this as the Brooklyn of Tokyo!
Yoyogi Park – Yoyogi Park has served many different roles – from army parade grounds, to a U.S. officer housing area in 1945, to Olympic athlete housing in 1964. Today the park acts as a weekend gathering space for many unique groups, like cosplayers and Rockabillys. Sunday’s are your best bet to spot the Rockabilly dancers that dress like it’s 1950 and show off their best Elvis impressions at the main square.
La Boulangerie Django – This bakery was hands down my favorite bakery of the trip and with my pastry track record, that’s a high praise! This spot may be small, but has a great range of sweet and savory goodies, each made with care in the back and very different to what you’ll find at a standard Japanese bakery. If they’re still in season, try the Kouge Amman or their apricot danishes.
Bill’s – While this isn’t a Japanese place, Bills is a great option if you’re in the mood for a more Western breakfast, as they serve granola, pancakes, eggs - you name it! On top of that, the restaurant is located on the 7th floor of Tokyo Plaza, so there’s great views of central Tokyo’s skyline.
Tokyo Juice – One of my favorite spots was Tokyo Juice. The little, English-friendly space serves acai bowls that are topped with homemade granola and nut butters. My peanut butter bowl was so good, I could have come here every morning!
Cafe Kitsuné – Okay, I’ll admit, this cafe is a bit of an Instagram-hype, but the coffee really is delicious, the brekkie is freshly prepared, and the service is incredible! Consider grabbing a little souvenir to shop off back home!
%Arabica – This spot is spreading like wildfire! We spotted brand new branches of this cafe in South Korea and Vietnam already. The interior is super sleek, bright, and modern. The company roasts their own beans and offers tasty pastries from local bakeries, making it the perfect spot for a cozy cuppa.
Omoide Yokocho (Piss Alley) – This area of Tokyo is limited to a square block and houses dozens of eateries in teenie tiny little buildings. We wandered for a while and chose Shimonya, one of the larger restaurants on the block serving small, grilled dishes. My personal favorite was the simple, yet delicious rice ball and the grilled veggies. We loved being squashed into the small space,shoulder-to-shoulder with locals, and parked on stumpy little chairs.
Sakura-tei – We enjoyed okonomiyaki so much when we tried it in Hiroshima that we just had to find another spot before we left! This time, we went to Sakura-tei, where instead of watching the chef make it in front of you, you get to make it yourself! This restaurant is also a solid option for vegans and/or vegetarians, so long you’re okay with cooking on a shared stove!
Kura Sushi Global Flagship – Kura Sushi is a pretty massive brand for Japan, but their flagship restaurant is simply an experience. When you arrive, you pull a number from the ticket machine and wait your turn. From there, you head to a private booth when your number is called. All orders are placed on an iPad and once they’re ready, they zip to your table in a little delivery boat. Not only that, but once you’ve accumulated five sushi plates, the booth lets you play a game to win prizes!
Asuka Ramen – Of all the ramen places we’ve tried, this is the most modern and influenced by Western cuisine. Contrary to traditional ramen, this broth is clear and essenced with yuzu, their specialty. The vegan ramen was very good and featured plenty of fresh veggies!
ITOI – Jackson discovered this tempura spot on one of our last nights in Tokyo. Had we stayed longer, I would have wanted to go back, it was just that good! Our server spoke perfect English and recommended a number of dishes, so we simply ordered a bunch and gave them a go! Let me tell you – each one was delicious and delivered quickly, making it easy to keep sampling. My favorite was the honey brie tempura!
B-Flat Commune – On our last day in Tokyo city, we were wandering around Shibuya and feeling peckish. In an effort to find something cheesy, we stumbled upon DEENEY’s inside the B-Flat Commune’s food truck area. This little food truck was parked cozily in a lot between buildings. The area had a number of tables and benches to accompany the wide range of treats available from the stalls.
Sakura Sacas – Our last meal was at Sakura Sacas. While this restaurant is best suited for meat-eaters, I was able to sample some very delicious dishes! From garlic greens to tasty dumplings, this eatery has it all! Prepare for some spice though!
Gonpachi – Located on the 14th floor in a high-rise in Shibuya, Gonpachi has graced Tokyo skies for nearly 25 years. The restaurant’s more casual area was the inspiration for the famous fight scene in Kill Bill! While this area looked great, we booked an Edomae sushi course (our most expensive meal of the trip) that had a vegan option as well. We watched as Masao Fukushi prepared our individual dishes, each delicately placed on small plates, sometimes brushed with wasabi, and arranged like a lovely bouquet. The simple, yet complex preparation of the meal was mesmerizing to watch and was worth every penny.
Golden Gai – Golden Gai is Piss Alley’s boozy counterpart, where you’ll wander through multiple blocks of tightly-packed bars. It can be tough to choose a place to grab a drink and equally as difficult to find a spot! Consider heading out there early (around 5 or 6pm) to grab a spot while seats are open! We went with Albatross on two different occasions, simply because the drinks were perfectly prepared and the space feels cozy, yet elegant. The interiors are dark, but look for quirky decorations on the wall and spot the light the chandelier sheds on the drink-lined walls.
Overview // Mt. Fuji
When we got closer to planning the end of our Japan trip, we knew we had to make an effort to see Mount Fuji. This can be a tricky task, as the famed volcano is only fully visible on 90 days of the year. Otherwise, Fuji is covered in constantly shifting clouds and mist, depending on the season, so if you can, keep an eye on the weather and keep a few days flexible. Once you find your best bet for a good-weather day, book a tour or a train out there and hope for the best! We got lucky with our chosen day and had incredible views. Not only that, but we got the tail-end of a very late cherry blossom season and were able to watch Fuji framed in petals. While we later learned that a train trip is fairly simple, we decided to book a tour that would take us to all of the best spots. We typically aren't ‘tour people’, but the ease of transport and organized lunch lured us in this time. On our trip, we stopped at the First Station viewpoint, but unfortunately weren’t able to venture any higher as an avalanche had recently blocked the rest of the road up. Afterwards, we headed to the Fuji World Heritage Center to see stunning models of the volcano’s scale and to see how it changes with the seasons. The center also has a great rooftop with crowd-free views of Fuji! For lunch, we were shuttled to the Fujiyama Terrace Highland Resort, which hosts a massive buffet with panoramic views. The buffet had every kind of food we could imagine, so naturally, we had to make multiple plate-refill trips. For the final segment of the tour, we headed to Lake Kawaguchi. The drive goes past the famed Lawson viewpoint, which will reportedly be blocked to tourists in coming weeks due to overcrowding. Once at the lake, we embarked on three hours of free time to take the gondola to the viewpoint on Mount Tenjo and to go for a 20-minute boat ride. The gondola was a fun little ride, but Jackson and his dad opted for the challenging hike to the top. As for the boat ride, we likely could have done without it! While it’s out of the operator's control, the clouds rolled in over Mount Fuji as we embarked and the rest of the ride provided fairly similar views of the surrounding landscape. That said, if you love the feeling of wind in your hair and a cool lake breeze, the boat ride is all yours! Ultimately, we could have done without a tour that day, as we typically favor our own itinerary. Still, booking a tour allowed us to go about the day without concern for what was next and simply sit back, relax, and enjoy the views.
Our Favorites // Mt. Fuji:
Stations One to Five – The stations are the only viewpoints accessible by car and offer great views of the looming Fuji peak above. Recently, Station Five was closed due to a late winter avalanche.
Fuji World Heritage Center – This is the best spot to learn more about Mount Fuji and the strenuous trek to its peak. The space offers great 3D models of the volcano, as well as interactive displays to explore.
Fujiyama Terrace – While you likely do not need to stay overnight, the Fujiyama Terrace Highland Resort has a restaurant with incredible views and a truly massive buffet.
Lake Kawaguchi – Not far from the base of Mount Fuji, lies lake Kawaguchi. On the way, you’ll drive past the famous Lawson photo spot – unfortunately, this is due to be closed because of overcrowding. Once at the lake, you can take a short boat ride or the ropeway to the top of Mount Tenjo. We’d recommend the ropeway, as it’s easier to spend more time out there or go for a fairly quick (but steep) hike up.
Where We Stayed: